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Interested in Hollands? You have picked a nice breed.
They are not the easiest breed to raise or the least expensive
breed to buy. But they are the most rewarding and enjoyable.
When approaching a breeder with stock for sale, have an idea
of what your looking for and what your budget will allow. Be
up front about this, before wasting your time and,Theirs. Be
Honest...Dont say you are looking for a 4H bunny for your child
when the intent is for the animal to be yours.
Hollands start at 35.00 with papers. Prices go up from there
depending on the quality of the animal. Prices can be 50.00 to
300.00. Don't buy without a pedigree, unless your buying
a pet quality bunny or rabbit.
BUYING DOES: Senior does are not going to be plentiful, try to
get at least one. A breeder may have offspring they are going
to keep but will sell the mother. Don't be to wary of a 2 year old
brood doe, especially if you get to see her offspring and like
what you see. Check general health condition and temperate.
Check for vent disease, and ask when she last had babies.
BUYING BUCKS: Try to PURCHASE the best possible buck you
can afford. Put a lot of thought into choosing the animal who
will have a significant impact on your entire herd. He is the
one used on more animals and will have a more overall effect
on the herd than a doe will. He is the one you really should buy
as a senior. If you have larger does, try and purchase a buck
between 3 to 3 1/2 pounds. Check to make sure both testicles
are down and he does not have a split penis.
BUYING ANY STOCK: Check the teeth, toenails, and eyes .Look
over the entire animal for health. Check for nasal discharge
or matted front paws.
They are not the easiest breed to raise or the least expensive
breed to buy. But they are the most rewarding and enjoyable.
When approaching a breeder with stock for sale, have an idea
of what your looking for and what your budget will allow. Be
up front about this, before wasting your time and,Theirs. Be
Honest...Dont say you are looking for a 4H bunny for your child
when the intent is for the animal to be yours.
Hollands start at 35.00 with papers. Prices go up from there
depending on the quality of the animal. Prices can be 50.00 to
300.00. Don't buy without a pedigree, unless your buying
a pet quality bunny or rabbit.
BUYING DOES: Senior does are not going to be plentiful, try to
get at least one. A breeder may have offspring they are going
to keep but will sell the mother. Don't be to wary of a 2 year old
brood doe, especially if you get to see her offspring and like
what you see. Check general health condition and temperate.
Check for vent disease, and ask when she last had babies.
BUYING BUCKS: Try to PURCHASE the best possible buck you
can afford. Put a lot of thought into choosing the animal who
will have a significant impact on your entire herd. He is the
one used on more animals and will have a more overall effect
on the herd than a doe will. He is the one you really should buy
as a senior. If you have larger does, try and purchase a buck
between 3 to 3 1/2 pounds. Check to make sure both testicles
are down and he does not have a split penis.
BUYING ANY STOCK: Check the teeth, toenails, and eyes .Look
over the entire animal for health. Check for nasal discharge
or matted front paws.
Feed: The first challenge is to find the feed your stock does the best on. I feed Pen Pals 16% . Very Good Feed.
Oats and alfalfa used as the grain product, It has NO CORN and no growth hormones. Holland Lop rabbit's intestines are very
sensitive and seem to do better on lower protein and higher fiber. In my opinion Hollands should have a NO Corn based food.
But every breeder has their opinion on this matter. YOU will need to find what works best for you..
.
Diarrhea: Diarrhea in rabbits may be caused by any number of factors, such as diet change, severe weather, or stress.
It may also be associated with a number of serious intestinal problems such as Salmonella, Coccidia, or hairballs.
If the sample is free of parasites, then close attention should be given to other possible disease problems. If parasites
such as coccidia are diagnosed, they should be treated accordingly.
ANY rabbit with diarrhea should have the feed removed for 24 hours. The rabbit should receive plenty of fresh water and be
fed straw or coarse hay for 1-2 days, followed by a slow return of the regular diet. If you have changed feed and didn't
do it gradually, now is the time to mix the new feed with the old feed to slowly adjust the herd over several days.
WEANLING ENTERITIS: These disorders or diseases are divided according to symptoms into three types and are primarily
found in young rabbits before weaning. 1. Mucoid Enteritis, 2. Hemorrhagic Enteritis, 3. Diarrheal Enteritis.
MUCOID ENTERITIS: causes an excretion of clear, jelly like substance. It can easily be seen under hutches or on the
hutch wire of rabbits afflicted. The animal grits his teeth, sits near the water with the front feet in the bowl. Dull eyes,
pinched face. Mortality rate is very high and prevention is in all cases more effective than cure. Treatment is with a broad
spectrum antibotic or Emtryl powder.
HEMORRHAGIS ENTERITIS: is the least common type of enteritis. Its most common sign is a bloody, watery fecal discharge. Again
treatment can be best administered by using a broad spectrum antibiotic. It is not thought to be contagious since only some
rabbits in a litter will be affected while others are completely healthy.
DIARRHEAL ENTERITIS: is the most common type of enteritis in rabbits. The signs are excessive and watery diarrhea
( sometimes dark and foul in color ) usually one to three days. It is often times confused with coccidiosis. Enteritis of this
type may cause bloat and a gurgling sound may be heard when shaking the rabbit. Best results come by removing
water for 24 hours, reducing ration and feeding hay, using broad spectrum antibiotic until feed intake becomes normal or
symptoms disappear. Enteritis is thought to be the number one killer of rabbits. It primarily affects young rabbits.
COCCIDIOSIS: Cause: A microscopic parasite (protozoa) One type infects the liver, four other types infect the intestinal
tract. SYMPTOMS: Loose bowels, diarrhea, pot belly, with poor weight gain. Rabbit sits haunched position with its hind legs
extended forward, liver is spotted with white nodules, coccidia in fecal contents.
TREATMENT: Use a sufa medication in the water 5 to 6 days a month or feed a medicated pellet periodically.
A parasite is the cause of this infection. The intestinal type of coccidiosis is more difficult to treat. In mild cases there
are no external symptons, however the microscope would reveal the presence of oocytes in the droppings. When medium
to heavy infestations occur, symptoms will be soft droppings, mild diarrhea and a loss of body flesh. A rabbit that survives
a bout of heavy diarrhea up to the age of 3 months may never again show outward signs of the disease.
DOES BECOME BUCKS: Split penis is also called hypospadias. It is when the urethral opening is not on the tip of
the penis but constitutes a large slit on the entire under side. There can be varying degrees of this problem, from a normal sized
opening located too far down on the penis, to an incomplete closure of the urethal opening, creating a penis that is split all the
way from the tip down to the base. These bucks will frequently look like does when sexed at an early age.
This penis will look better as the rabbit gets older, but these bucks will have a very characteristic curl to the penis when sexed. r
upon closer examination, you will see the complete split. They will also be fertile, but as this is a highly inheritable
trait, they should not be used for breeding.
Oats and alfalfa used as the grain product, It has NO CORN and no growth hormones. Holland Lop rabbit's intestines are very
sensitive and seem to do better on lower protein and higher fiber. In my opinion Hollands should have a NO Corn based food.
But every breeder has their opinion on this matter. YOU will need to find what works best for you..
.
Diarrhea: Diarrhea in rabbits may be caused by any number of factors, such as diet change, severe weather, or stress.
It may also be associated with a number of serious intestinal problems such as Salmonella, Coccidia, or hairballs.
If the sample is free of parasites, then close attention should be given to other possible disease problems. If parasites
such as coccidia are diagnosed, they should be treated accordingly.
ANY rabbit with diarrhea should have the feed removed for 24 hours. The rabbit should receive plenty of fresh water and be
fed straw or coarse hay for 1-2 days, followed by a slow return of the regular diet. If you have changed feed and didn't
do it gradually, now is the time to mix the new feed with the old feed to slowly adjust the herd over several days.
WEANLING ENTERITIS: These disorders or diseases are divided according to symptoms into three types and are primarily
found in young rabbits before weaning. 1. Mucoid Enteritis, 2. Hemorrhagic Enteritis, 3. Diarrheal Enteritis.
MUCOID ENTERITIS: causes an excretion of clear, jelly like substance. It can easily be seen under hutches or on the
hutch wire of rabbits afflicted. The animal grits his teeth, sits near the water with the front feet in the bowl. Dull eyes,
pinched face. Mortality rate is very high and prevention is in all cases more effective than cure. Treatment is with a broad
spectrum antibotic or Emtryl powder.
HEMORRHAGIS ENTERITIS: is the least common type of enteritis. Its most common sign is a bloody, watery fecal discharge. Again
treatment can be best administered by using a broad spectrum antibiotic. It is not thought to be contagious since only some
rabbits in a litter will be affected while others are completely healthy.
DIARRHEAL ENTERITIS: is the most common type of enteritis in rabbits. The signs are excessive and watery diarrhea
( sometimes dark and foul in color ) usually one to three days. It is often times confused with coccidiosis. Enteritis of this
type may cause bloat and a gurgling sound may be heard when shaking the rabbit. Best results come by removing
water for 24 hours, reducing ration and feeding hay, using broad spectrum antibiotic until feed intake becomes normal or
symptoms disappear. Enteritis is thought to be the number one killer of rabbits. It primarily affects young rabbits.
COCCIDIOSIS: Cause: A microscopic parasite (protozoa) One type infects the liver, four other types infect the intestinal
tract. SYMPTOMS: Loose bowels, diarrhea, pot belly, with poor weight gain. Rabbit sits haunched position with its hind legs
extended forward, liver is spotted with white nodules, coccidia in fecal contents.
TREATMENT: Use a sufa medication in the water 5 to 6 days a month or feed a medicated pellet periodically.
A parasite is the cause of this infection. The intestinal type of coccidiosis is more difficult to treat. In mild cases there
are no external symptons, however the microscope would reveal the presence of oocytes in the droppings. When medium
to heavy infestations occur, symptoms will be soft droppings, mild diarrhea and a loss of body flesh. A rabbit that survives
a bout of heavy diarrhea up to the age of 3 months may never again show outward signs of the disease.
DOES BECOME BUCKS: Split penis is also called hypospadias. It is when the urethral opening is not on the tip of
the penis but constitutes a large slit on the entire under side. There can be varying degrees of this problem, from a normal sized
opening located too far down on the penis, to an incomplete closure of the urethal opening, creating a penis that is split all the
way from the tip down to the base. These bucks will frequently look like does when sexed at an early age.
This penis will look better as the rabbit gets older, but these bucks will have a very characteristic curl to the penis when sexed. r
upon closer examination, you will see the complete split. They will also be fertile, but as this is a highly inheritable
trait, they should not be used for breeding.
HOLLAND PERSONALITY: There are 3 types of personalities in hollands. Twang, cuddles, and boring.
Hollands have multiple personalities depending on their environment and will show traits of all three.
TWANG: Hyperactive or high strung. Pace constantly at home, buck takes delight on urinating on anyone and anything.
Some breeders feel that these are more sexually aggressive males.
CUDDLES: Is the ideal holland personality. This is an alert animal, aware of, and interested in all that is going on around it.
Cuddles would rather be petted, than fed and comes eagerly to you when you open the cage door. They like to be held and
give rabbit kisses and cuddle under your chin.
Boring: Does not need a large cage as they hardly ever move. Boring does however have the best personality for showing as
they can maintain a show pose forever. Nicer name would be laid back.
Hollands have multiple personalities depending on their environment and will show traits of all three.
TWANG: Hyperactive or high strung. Pace constantly at home, buck takes delight on urinating on anyone and anything.
Some breeders feel that these are more sexually aggressive males.
CUDDLES: Is the ideal holland personality. This is an alert animal, aware of, and interested in all that is going on around it.
Cuddles would rather be petted, than fed and comes eagerly to you when you open the cage door. They like to be held and
give rabbit kisses and cuddle under your chin.
Boring: Does not need a large cage as they hardly ever move. Boring does however have the best personality for showing as
they can maintain a show pose forever. Nicer name would be laid back.
BREEDING: Selection of breeding stock requires careful consideration and is very important in producing good quality
hollands. Before breeding those chosen, examine the buck and the doe for signs of poor health. Never attempt to breed
animals who show signs of poor health. When doe is ready her vulva will appear to be red in color and moist. Take the doe
to the buck's cage for breeding. Matting should occur quickly and when completed the buck usually falls on his side. This
is easily recognized.
GESTATION PERIOD: For does is 30 to 32 days. This is the time from mating until kindling. Pregnancy can be determined by
palpating the doe 14 to 18 days after breeding. To Test, restrain the doe with one hand on the head while placing the other
hand under the body in the abdominal area. The developing kits can be felt as you examine the uterus with the thumb and
two fingers.
NEST BOX: Should be placed in the doe's cage about 28 days after breeding. A 10 x 16 inch box made of plywood is an
ideal size for Holland. The nest box should contain some nesting material such as straw. The doe will pull fur to
complete the nest for the young.
After the doe has kindled, the litter should be inspected, all dead and abnormal kits should be removed. Fostering some kits
may be considered, if the litter is larger or smaller than usual. Normally a doe will do well with 4 kits, no more than 6.
when transfering young to another doe, they should be marked unless they are a differenet color.
hollands. Before breeding those chosen, examine the buck and the doe for signs of poor health. Never attempt to breed
animals who show signs of poor health. When doe is ready her vulva will appear to be red in color and moist. Take the doe
to the buck's cage for breeding. Matting should occur quickly and when completed the buck usually falls on his side. This
is easily recognized.
GESTATION PERIOD: For does is 30 to 32 days. This is the time from mating until kindling. Pregnancy can be determined by
palpating the doe 14 to 18 days after breeding. To Test, restrain the doe with one hand on the head while placing the other
hand under the body in the abdominal area. The developing kits can be felt as you examine the uterus with the thumb and
two fingers.
NEST BOX: Should be placed in the doe's cage about 28 days after breeding. A 10 x 16 inch box made of plywood is an
ideal size for Holland. The nest box should contain some nesting material such as straw. The doe will pull fur to
complete the nest for the young.
After the doe has kindled, the litter should be inspected, all dead and abnormal kits should be removed. Fostering some kits
may be considered, if the litter is larger or smaller than usual. Normally a doe will do well with 4 kits, no more than 6.
when transfering young to another doe, they should be marked unless they are a differenet color.
ORPHAN BUNNIES: Here are some reciepes for bunny formulas if you find yourself needing to be an adopted mom.
FORMULA 1. 1 CUP MILK FORMULA 2. 1 EGG YOLK
3 EGG YOLKS 240ml CANNED EVAPORATED MILK
1.25 TBSP LIGHT CORN SYRUP 240ml WATER
1 DROP ORAL MULTIPLE BABY VITAMIN 5ml HONEY
PINCH OF SALT 5ml PEDIATRIC VITAMINS
Place in blender, and blend. Warm to 95 to 100 degrees.
FORMULA 3: 13oz. can CONCENTRATED LIQUID BABY FORMULA
5 oz. can EVAPORATED MILK
5 oz. WATER
1 TBSP HONEY
2 EGGS BEATEN
You will need to gently swab the anal area with warm water soaked cotton ball to stimulate urination and defecation for the
first week or two if the baby is very young. You can use a small bottle from the vet or feed supply house or a baby nursing kit.
Keep babies in a box with shavings and warm soft material or some nesting material. Keep out of drafts. You may want to
put a light over nest box for the first few days for extra warmth. It takes a lot of patience and time. The greatest dangers
are aspiration ( forcing liquids too fast and causing the bunny to choke or get into its lungs,) Pneumonia, hypothermia, and
diarrhea.
FORMULA 1. 1 CUP MILK FORMULA 2. 1 EGG YOLK
3 EGG YOLKS 240ml CANNED EVAPORATED MILK
1.25 TBSP LIGHT CORN SYRUP 240ml WATER
1 DROP ORAL MULTIPLE BABY VITAMIN 5ml HONEY
PINCH OF SALT 5ml PEDIATRIC VITAMINS
Place in blender, and blend. Warm to 95 to 100 degrees.
FORMULA 3: 13oz. can CONCENTRATED LIQUID BABY FORMULA
5 oz. can EVAPORATED MILK
5 oz. WATER
1 TBSP HONEY
2 EGGS BEATEN
You will need to gently swab the anal area with warm water soaked cotton ball to stimulate urination and defecation for the
first week or two if the baby is very young. You can use a small bottle from the vet or feed supply house or a baby nursing kit.
Keep babies in a box with shavings and warm soft material or some nesting material. Keep out of drafts. You may want to
put a light over nest box for the first few days for extra warmth. It takes a lot of patience and time. The greatest dangers
are aspiration ( forcing liquids too fast and causing the bunny to choke or get into its lungs,) Pneumonia, hypothermia, and
diarrhea.
FUR BLOCK: Cause: Matted, undigested fur in the stomach ( hair ball ) blocking the opening to the small intestines.
SYMPTOMS: Rabbit eats very small amount or stop eating all together.
TREATMENT: Give an oral dose of mineral oil for 3 consecutive days ( use a syringe without the needle and administer 10cc
orally) Feeding a roughage and fiber ( good timothy or alfalfa hay) will usually help prevent fur ball from forming.
SYMPTOMS: Rabbit eats very small amount or stop eating all together.
TREATMENT: Give an oral dose of mineral oil for 3 consecutive days ( use a syringe without the needle and administer 10cc
orally) Feeding a roughage and fiber ( good timothy or alfalfa hay) will usually help prevent fur ball from forming.
MALOCCLUSION OR BUCK TEETH, WOLF TEETH: CAUSE: INHERITED ( genetic); or injury
Symptoms: Long abnormal growth of front teeth; upper teeth curl back into the mouth while lowers protrude.
TREATMENT: Clip teeth to normal length ( use a wire cutter or side pliers) and sell for meat as soon as slaughter weight is
attained. Do not keep breeding stock from parents of any animals showing this abnormality.
Symptoms: Long abnormal growth of front teeth; upper teeth curl back into the mouth while lowers protrude.
TREATMENT: Clip teeth to normal length ( use a wire cutter or side pliers) and sell for meat as soon as slaughter weight is
attained. Do not keep breeding stock from parents of any animals showing this abnormality.
KETOSIS: Cause: Over fatness-LACK OF EXERCISE, does out of condition.
SYMPTOMS: Occurs just before or just after kindling. listless, loss of appetite, diarrhea, excessive fat in adbomen.
TREATMENT: Injection of glucose and the addition of sugar or molasses to drinking water. Prevent over fatness in does by
limiting feed to 4oz to 6oz daily and encourage exercise..
SYMPTOMS: Occurs just before or just after kindling. listless, loss of appetite, diarrhea, excessive fat in adbomen.
TREATMENT: Injection of glucose and the addition of sugar or molasses to drinking water. Prevent over fatness in does by
limiting feed to 4oz to 6oz daily and encourage exercise..
SNUFFLES ( colds) : CAUSE..Bacterial infection of the nasal sinuses.
SYMPTOMS: Sneezing, nasal discharge, watery eyes, rubbing nose with front feet, matted fur on
inside of front feet.
TREATMENT: A broad spectrum antibiotic. Snuffles in rabbits is a chronic type of respiratory
infection. It is very contagious and difficult to control. The signs of snuffles: (sneezing, nasal
discharge, watery eyes, rubbing nose with front feet ) tend to subside and then reappear usually
during extreme weather changes or other stress periods. ISOLATE your suspected cases and treat
with a broad spectrum antibiotic. Those not responding should be elimated from the herd.
Respiratory infections must be caught in their early stages for complete recovery. Snuffles can
develop into PNEUMONIA.
SYMPTOMS: Sneezing, nasal discharge, watery eyes, rubbing nose with front feet, matted fur on
inside of front feet.
TREATMENT: A broad spectrum antibiotic. Snuffles in rabbits is a chronic type of respiratory
infection. It is very contagious and difficult to control. The signs of snuffles: (sneezing, nasal
discharge, watery eyes, rubbing nose with front feet ) tend to subside and then reappear usually
during extreme weather changes or other stress periods. ISOLATE your suspected cases and treat
with a broad spectrum antibiotic. Those not responding should be elimated from the herd.
Respiratory infections must be caught in their early stages for complete recovery. Snuffles can
develop into PNEUMONIA.
WEBSITES ON...MEDICATIONS....VITAMINS.....
barbibrownsbunnies.com
www.bunnyrabbit.com
www.houserabbit.co.uk/rwf/articles/penicllin.htm (safe penicillin)
www.medirabbit.com/Unsafe_medication/dangerous_antibiotics.htm (dangerous penicillin)
barbibrownsbunnies.com
www.bunnyrabbit.com
www.houserabbit.co.uk/rwf/articles/penicllin.htm (safe penicillin)
www.medirabbit.com/Unsafe_medication/dangerous_antibiotics.htm (dangerous penicillin)
STRAWS AND PAWS
HOLLAND INFORMATION
HOLLAND INFORMATION
DRAGO
DRAGO